David Traeger is an old hand with decades of experience, after a long and distinguished history of crafting an entire generation of the most memorable vintages. Viticulture has been an essential part of Victoria's lifestyle and culture over the course of three centuries. Traeger has drawn fruit from a shortlist of low yielding Heathcote vineyards, precious sites which can trace their genesis from the nineteenth century to the 21st. Each parcel imparts its own distinct complexity and character to the finished wine.

The fruits of growing season 2003, cellared by David Traeger until release, have developed beautifully and speak of a sensational vintage year. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot, crafted at the Sommerset Crossing Wineworks, matured twelve months under a combination of the finest French Nevers oak hogsheads, followed by an extended term under the Seymour cellars. A complex wine with an earthy palate and evolved, old spice characters, dark berry flavours and well perfumed, red and black currant notes.

A co ferment of Shiraz with a judicious soupçon of Rousanne, foot treaded in the good old fashioned way and sent to a selection of pre loved French and American oaks for a timely term of age. Its dark, savoury Shiraz perfumes are matched by cocoa and blackberries, cedar and spice, a palate of roast meats and tarry reductions, well supported by a length of juicy graphite tannins. An understatedly sophisticated style of Shiraz with a dose of je ne sais quoi that's sure to seduce the most learned and discerning of palates.

The fun and engaging Stump Jump is the perfect everyday drink, as well as a good introduction to the d'Arenberg range. While all the winemaking at d'Arenberg is artisanal and traditional, Stump Jump can further be described as an assemblage of parcels sourced off some very old bush vines. Ideally fashioned to compliment a myriad of foods, the label characterizes the humour of d'Arenberg. Like an optometrist's eye chart, test your vision by holding the bottle at arm's length. Can you read the bottom line? If so, reward yourself with another glass!

Half Grenache, the balance in Mourverdre and Shiraz, Stump Jump is an assemblage of components that flowed down from the many senior wines in the d'Arenberg stable, including parcels from a range of growers. McLaren Vale GSM that packs plenty of interest, like an Aussie Cotes-du-Rhone, with berries and spice, savoury meatyness and fragrant earth. A touch of dried herbs adds a savoury edge with fine, lifted tannins providing a long finish. It's a cracking wine with sophistication, but don't worry it's still a lot of fun.

Chester Osborn was one of the first growers to plant Tempranillo in McLaren Vale. This torrid Spanish grape is well suited to the Mediterranean climes of the region and a traditional blending partner for some of d'Arenberg's favourite old world styles. Grenache and Tempranillo work beautifully together, the Portuguese mix of Tinta Cao and Souzao provide wonderful complexity and depth. And the quirky name? Sticks and stones may break bones but will never hurt, in truth, much of the fruit is picked off sticks planted to parched, stony soils.

The vineyards and bushland which surround d'Arenberg winery are home to the native black and white kookaburra, famous for its distinctive laughing call. Much to the amusement of the winemaker's family, Chester Osborn's daughters, Alicia and Ruby, named their two wild pet kookaburras the laughing magpies. A good branding for McLaren Vale's first ever combination of the black Shiraz grape with the sweetly perfumed white Viognier. Declassified parcels of the icon Dead Arm Shiraz are assembled into the final Magpie mix.

d'Arenberg's love affair with Grenache reaches its pinnacle with Ironstone Pressings. The original block planted in 1918, on the lower side of the winery, has a plentiful amount of ironstone throughout the soil structures, which enhances the body and tannin structure of the wine. As the finished wine is a cepage of three grapes it is a matter of selecting and screening the very best Grenache barrels. They complement the Dead Arm Shiraz component which likewise complements the 28 Rd Mourvedre portion to a point where the Grenache is beautifully framed.

The High Trellis paddock has been yielding the most splendid vintages of wine since the late 19th century, so nicknamed as the vines were the first to be trained above knee height following acquisition of the property by dArenberg. For decades, High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon has been released to unanimous critical acclaim by the wine industry press and international cognoscente. Indeed, the inaugural 1968 vintage earned a place in history when it claimed Australia's most prestigious accolade, the highly coveted Jimmy Watson Trophy.

The Garagists are bespoke Bordeaux winemakers who work in their garage, outside of the Appellation Controlee system. Grapes are vinified in the shed or garage of boutique winemakers dedicated to making small volume wines of the highest quality. These limited editions are unclassified by the governing wine authorities, yet are often the most sought after, highly priced collectibles in the world. d'Arenberg make their wines in the very same small batch manner, processing fruit by hand in an old galvanised garage shed winery. Grab a Galvo and serve to gigot of goat.

Previously known as the Old Vines Shiraz, a portion of the fruit comes off vines purchased by Joseph Rowe Osborn almost a century ago. Joseph was one of the most successful racehorse owners in South Australia until 1912, when he sold his stable to buy the d'Arenberg property. Footbolt was one of Joseph's champion horses. A very approachable wine in its youth, the soft rich middle palate, terrific texture and long rolling finish, can last for decades, as a half century of exquisite vintages have shown. Always decant The Footbolt before service.

Joseph Rowe Osborn was born in 1852, he was a lay preacher, mining speculator, public servant, teetotaler and local politician. Osborn joined Thomas Hardy & Sons in 1881, eventually becoming a partner and director. He invested in a chestnut colt which won a fortune at the races and changed his life forever. Footbolt was the first wine in McLaren Vale to be labelled as Old Vine. When the moniker became common practice it was altered to commemorate the racehorse which played a pivotal role in the establishment of d'Arenberg.

McLaren Vale was planted to Grenache long ago, when pioneers established plots of vine on their homestead farms. Grenache became rather unfashionable towards the middle of the twentieth century, Chester Osborn had the vision to acquire many of these overgrown and abandoned bush vineyards. To the layman's eye, they still look like derelict old sites, but they yield precious harvests of the most outstanding fruit. A concentrated wine with depth and complexity, oozing lozenges of winegum and prettily perfumed purple fruits.

Excellent Langtons Classification & Gold Medal 2008 Concours Mondial de Bruxelles. Dead Arm is a vine disease caused by the fungus Eutypa Lata that randomly affects vineyards all over the world. Often vines affected are severely pruned or replanted. One half, or an arm of the vine slowly becomes reduced to dead wood. That side may be lifeless and brittle, but the grapes on the other side, while low yielding, display amazing intensity.

One of Australia's most celebrated reds, renowned globally as much for the struggle of the diseased vines to produce the vigorous berries, as for it's spellbinding palate, and peculiar name. An excellent vintage that ripened without interruptions.

The Dead Arm Shiraz is the very best Shiraz from one of the oldest producers, in arguably the best Shiraz producing region in the world. After time in bottle the d'Arenberg Dead Arm gains a biscuity, cinnamon, caramel and eucalyptus based bouquet on top of rich blackberry pie smells. The accent is on powerful full-bodied berry fruit flavour, with a little sweet English toffee- like oak evident on the juicy, rolling finish.

Outstanding Langtons Classification, one of Australia's most revered red wines, highly sought by enthusiasts around the globe. Named after a notorious vine blight which strikes fear into the heart of viticulturalists around the world, Darenberg's construct of Dead Arm Shiraz is an aberration of ancient, truncated, gap toothed vines which date back to 1912. A powerful red wine, vinified from the most intensely flavoured hand picked fruit, renowned by enthusiasts throughout the world, it remains one of Australia's most accessible, great icon wines.

Crafted from choice parcels of Shiraz and Grenache, picked off d'Arenberg's low yielding 19th century vineyards, very much a traditional style of wine. d'Arry's Original is named in honour of principal, d'Arry Osborn, a Winemakers Federation of Australia Patron and recipient Medal of the Order of Australia. One of d'Arenberg's most enduring labels, originally called d'Arry's Burgundy in the 1960s, when medium bodied red wines with a soft finish were always called Burgundy.

d'Arenberg own and manage nearly a third of all the old Grenache bush vines in McLaren Vale. The very first instalment by d'Arenberg to display the famous red stripe was a Grenache wine, it has been a variety central to the estate portfolio ever since. During the 1980s, d'Arenberg resisted taking part in the great government sanctioned vine pull out scheme which proved to be disastrously short sighted and an assault on national treasure. Their faith in the wizzened old vines of McLaren Vale has bestowed upon d'Arenberg the accolade of Custodian.

Coppermine Road is named after an avenue, very near the d'Arenberg property which runs parallel to the finest block of Cabernet Sauvignon vines to be found anywhere in McLaren Vale. The precious grapes are descended largely from a curious and near extinct unnamed clone which yields no more than a single tonne per acre because of its very poor setting ability and tiny berries. The quality of the fruit however is far superior, with wonderful violet and blackcurrant aromas, great acidity and long but intense, finely grained tannins.

Dandelion are proven plantings of worldly vines which have stood the test of time. The Lionheart of Dandelion is a very old Barossa site, named for seminal Barossa grower Carl Lindner. Within this ancient parcel, gnarled vines, many over a hundred years of age, are not only surviving but thriving on their own roots, planted to some of the oldest soils on the planet. The hand picked grapes of this noble garden are crafted into a powerful yet approachable wine, which articulates beautifully, the dignity, generosity and grace of old vines Barossa Shiraz.

Dalwhinnie know that great Pinot Noir can only come from a healthy, well pruned vine which has the proper balance of fruit to foliage for even ripening. The bunches must be disease free, compact in composition and have good exposure to sunlight. Dalwhinnie is fortunate to have planted just such a site.

From a single precious block, planted to an inhospitable reef outcrop, dynamited for levelling and planted to the eminent Concongella clone of Shiraz in 1995. The dry and bony soils yield meagre harvests of the most amazing concentration, parched little berries bursting with flavour and lined with velvet tannins. Grampians Shiraz of the highest order and most distinguished peerage, its amazingly rich perfumes and bridled elegance, black fruit characters throughout, black cherries, black raspberries and black roses, salacious yet refined.

Full bodied, single block Shiraz of controlled power and amazing grace, crafted from a small parcel of precious fruit, picked off a rare clone, transplanted to Moonambel from an ancient Barossa vineyard in 1997. An opaque, masculine wine treated to an extended term of age in an extravagant choice of medium toast Allier French oak, its virile bouquet of musky jube aromas and seasoned sandalwood precedes a voluminious palate of dark berries, bramble and cassis, a wine of intense concentration supported by the splendour of masculine, savoury tannins.

Excellent Langtons Classification. A more masculine style of Shiraz, a wine of immense power and complexity, vinified from parcels of small, gnarled berries with massive concentration of fruit characters, picked off the most enduring vines grown to the parched western districts of country Victoria. The structure and complexity is impressive, exhibiting the taste and nose of Grand Cru Hermitage. An appealing freshness to the wine brings it forward, Dalwhinnie ages magnificently but is a profound experience to savour immediately upon release.

Excellent Langtons Classification. The Dalwhinnie vineyard is situated on the 37th parallel, within a unique amphitheatre which has its own unique mesoclime. The poor fragile soils left over from alluvial mining projects in the early 1800s are some of the hardest and hungriest anywhere. The first Shiraz vines, planted to the Grand Piano Block, were rootlings from the eminent Sunraysia Nurseries at Mildura. The site is totally frost free and harvests achieve complete physiological ripeness nine out of ten years, all vintage releases must surpass expectations.

Dalwhinnie vineyard was planted to a unique topographical amphitheatre which precipitates its own meso climate. The site is totally frost free and allows fruit to reach complete physiological ripeness in nine out of ten years. This rare confluence of temperate climes, cooler altitudes and parched Pyrenees soils, sublimate into one of Australia's most enduring and distinctive styles of Cabernet Sauvignon. A stunning wine, the overall impression is of ripe pure black fruits, layered with rich dark chocolate and seasoned by notes of violet and camphor.

Vintage 2004 represents twenty consecutive years of fine tuning within the vineyard and throughout the entire winemaking operation. Moonambel 2004 offers a palate and nose of exceptional depth and finesse, rating amongst the finest editions of Cabernet that Dalwhinnie have ever made. The style is fleshier than previous releases, bearing more fruit and tannin, endowed with great freshness and magnificent structure.

Dalwhinnie is well into its fourth decade of icon Australian Shiraz. Their parched soils atop the inhospitable climes of the Pyrenees yield restricted harvests of parched berries with aromatic, mouth filling spice characters and intense tannins. Just four kilometres along Taltarni Road on the Moonambel valley floor, Dalwhinnie has been pampering younger plantings at the Forest Hut Vineyard established in the 1990s. Now fully mature, these unirrigated and dry farmed, well canopied, vertically shoot positioned vines are producing intensely flavoured Shiraz.

Dalwhinnie is sited on the most magnificent Shiraz growing terrains. Eagle Shiraz is crafted to traditional Rhone winemaking techniques, foot crushing, whole bunch ferments, extended skin contact and maximum lees contact. The Eagle is a super concentration of unique aromas and flavours, which can only be achieved through some unconventional vinifications. Eagle Shiraz is treated to a traditional Italian basket press and eighteen months in small French oak barriques, Eagle Shiraz evolves sleek, fine tannins and superb integration.

Ever since inaugural release of vintage 1986, the splendid Dalwhinnie Eagle Series Vineyard has been recognized as an exceptional effort from a truly distinguished site. The property was first planted to Shiraz in 1977, the vineyard is completely dry grown, barely more than a hectare in size. Vines grow to a relatively wide 3.4 x 1.8 metre grid, on ancient sedimentary soils and bony quartz shale outcrops. The unique aspects of this elevated property at 385 metres above sea level, coupled with meticulous hand picking and hand pruning yields the most precious fruit.

Swansea is a favourite destination on Tasmania's east coast, renowned for its warm dry holiday season. Less than a kilometre from the sea, Dalrymple's block of Pinot Noir clones MV6 and 115 are planted to a sunny northern slope of basalt soils, overlooking the panoramic vistas of Great Oyster Bay down towards Freycinet Peninsula. A mix of whole bunch and destemmed fruit are treated to a week of ferments and frequent plungings, followed by fill to seasoned and new French oak barriques for malolactic and ten months maturation.

From a single block of low vigor Pinot Noir MV6 clone, just east of the small central highlands town of Ouse at the very heart of the apple isle in Derwent River Valley. A place of low rainfalls and drying winds, sunny days and cooling nights. A combination of destemmed and whole bunch fruit are treated to a wild indigenous ferment and frequent pumpovers, followed by pressing into a high proportion of new French oak barriques. An august style of Pinot Noir with the structure and substance to match with lamb, game meats and dark meat fowl.

Coal River Valley is most conspicuous for disappointingly low rainfall and punishingly dry winds. Dalrymple conducted an exhaustive search of the region to find a choice site offering excellent moisture retention under the lee of protective trees. A mix of whole bunch and destemmed grapes are treated to a week of wild indigenous yeast ferments and frequent pumpovers, drained and pressed to an extravagantly high proportion of new French oak hogsheads for a term of age. A beguilingly beautiful wine, open before service and allow the layers of complexity to unravel.

Nestled in a cocoon of mixed vegetation and rolling hills, Dalrymple enjoys a unique and seductive aspect shared by only a few boutique vineyards within the Pipers River region. This succulent and fresh, exclusively Pipers Brook Pinot Noir is fashioned from grapes that are chosen for their juicy flavours of ripe red berries, raspberry and plum. A natural ferment is encouraged and Burgundian techniques are applied, culminating in a complex yet harmonious wine that sings of fresh fruit and offers supple, velvety textures, built to be fully approachable while young.

Cottage Block is well sheltered from the cool north westerly winds of Pipers River, a slightly warmer microclime which produces small yields of intensely flavoured berries. Most of the harvest is destemmed, macerated and hand plunged, racked to a high proportion of new French oak barriques for malolactic and ten months maturation. The best barrels are treated to a further sixteen months before release. Darkly spiced beetroot and rhubarb, a firm tannin framework underpins refined acidity, a conspicuous freshness and vibrant lift to the finish and magnificent length.

It is the choice of vine trellising techniques which contributes to the quality of Pinot Noir grapes and sets Curly Flat apart. The property is located on a slope which catches the very last rays of sun in the Macedon Ranges at the magical moments before dusk. The vines here yield a national flagship that beat Domaine de la Romanee Conti at a Winewise taste off and was listed by Wine Ark as the second most collectible Pinot Noir in Australia. A complex, aromatic wine offering layers of fruit and bright, seamless tannins, speaking articulately of Pinot Noir and of place.

Defined by altitude, Orange is one of Australia's highest and coolest regions. A capricious grape to grow, Merlot demands a regime of perfect conditions to achieve an even berry set. The growers of Orange have dutifully obliged over many years, painstakingly developing this new but salubrious winegrowing precinct for the realization of world class Merlot. Fruit sets very well and bunch thinning is undertaken to limit the yields. Cumulus will handsomely accompany roasted Mediterranean vegetables with lamb and wild mushroom medley.