Vines up to a thousand years of age have been found very close to the Badia di Passignano wineworks. Literally hundreds of books at the Florence state archive attest to the significance of Badia di Passignano in the history of Chianti. The idyllic limestone slopes rise to an altitude of three hundred metres, one of the most beautiful and productive areas of Chianti Classico. To this day, the focus of the Antinori team, is on preserving the traditions of viticulture, with the aim of articulating the character which gives Badia di Passignano its distinctive identity.

Pam and Richard Austin planted their first vines during the 1980s, in the Barrabool Hills southwest of Geelong, with a view to making super premium wines for Australia's best restaurants. The soils they turned were the same as those worked by pioneering Swiss over a century before, when Geelong was recognised as source of the finest Australian wines. The climate and rolling slopes of Moorabool Valley, the super soils and idyllic terroirs stimulate the vines into yielding intense Shiraz grapes with luscious plum flavours, cool climate spice and gripping tannins.

The Kalleske family have been Barossa winegrowing since 1853, they retain priceless parcels of ancient vine, picking grapes off the very plantings nurtured by their forebears generations ago. The wizzened old veterans on Zen Master date back to establishment by the Atze family in 1912, they yield a precious harvest of potent black berries, treated to the old world style of open ferments, hand plunging and a course of age in a new French oak puncheon. Brimming with florals, silky smooth, seamless, an exquisite old vine Shiraz of extraordinary opulence, elegance and finesse.

The mob are a flock of sheep, they made pasture among a single hectare of vines and chewed the suffering plantings almost to ruin. The misfortunate Montepulciano however showed great resilience and were nursed back to life, resurrected as a magnificent single vineyard site with a meager yield of a precious 200 dozen. Sixteen months in French and American oak hogsheads underpins the mesmering Montepulciano fruit with a cushion of softened bramble tannis, savoury of olive, bay leaf and thyme, the succulence of ripe cherries undulate on the exquisitely balanced finish.

There's not much Durif in Australia, even less in Barossa Valley, Atze's Corner know a thing or two about taming the tannins of this masculine varietal, they treasure the challenge and are hopeful of planting another row or two. The actual day of picking is crucial to optimal ripeness, sorting of the parched little grapes is essential to the opulence of the finished wine. Purple midnight hues, textural and redolent of juicy wine gum jubes, licorice and violets cassis, the traditional chocolateyness of Barossa fruit, bursting out of its black, tannic corset.

Many of the nation's fine old vineyards were destroyed during a government backed scheme to reduce the capacity of wine production in the 1980s. One fortunate site, established 1951 by the family Atze, was rescued by the Kalleske and endures as a priceless, single block, single batch Barossa Shiraz, only ever released in the best vintage years. Seamless, intense, layered with richness, treated to a luxurious two years repose in completely new French oak, mesmerisingly complex and profoundly perfumed, only seventy cases are bottled from any one vintage.

The fruit of three small blocks Shiraz, planted by the Eddies family in 1912, 1951 and 1975, devotedly nurtured by the Kalleske since salvage from the ruthless vine pull scheme of the 1980s. A fortnight of maceration and completion of ferments in a high proportion of new oak hogsheads is followed by two years languid maturation. Eddie's Block is powerfully perfumed, heady with uber ripe fruits, currants and cassis, its stunning figure of festive plum fruits and dark cherry syrups, is complexed by fragrant seasonings of clove, cinammon and a sprinkling of vanilla anise.

Generations of Barossa viticulture makes the Kalleske well versed in identifying superior parcels of land which are heaven sent for great wine. They acquired just such a site from bachelor Bert Kleinig in the 1970s, it has remained in the family estate portfolio until the Atze team were inspired to bottle the magnificence of fruit as an elite vineyard Shiraz. Treated to the the luxury of eighteen months French oak, the Bachelor evolves in the glass as he breathes, blueberries, black currants and ripe damson plum, sweet spices, cinnamon and just a curl of cocoa cedar oak.

An assemblage of choice parcels from the ancient winegrowing hamlets of Koonunga and Ebenezer, hand picked and destemmed without crushing, delicately fermented, pumped and plunged by hand, gently basket pressed into oak for completion of malolactic and a year of age. The great enigma of Atze's Corner is how every bottling is remarkable for its seamlessness, astonishing balance and divinely perfumed fruit. A sprinkling of spice and vanilla of oak, sweetness of liquorice and juicy tannins, a whisp of liqueured cacao, as the luscious finish lingers on and on and on.

Raspberry, florals and plum over a succulent chamois of refined and elegant tannins, mostly Shiraz, a third of Grenache and a tenth of Mourvedre, treated separately to a mix of maturations in oak hogsheads and larger format French puncheons before assemblage. The Kalleske family have been growing and blending the holy trinity of Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre since early settlement, always a wine of freshness and seasoned savouryness, crafted from the pick of Barossa vineyards and fashioned for enjoyment alongside meaty grills, spiced game or juicy pink lamb.

There are parts of old Barossa Valley which grow exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon, the ancient winegrowing hamlet of Ebenezer is just such a place, it has made contributions throughout its history to some of the most memorable vintages Barossa Cabernet. The soils here are a challenge for the ruddy old vines, chastening the fruit into concentrating the flavours and ripening the tannins. A breath of juniper, black pepper and the fragrance of mint, dark chocolates and allsort, blackcurrants abound, Cabernet of effortless allure, seamlessness and stealth.

Ata Rangi are one of the new world's great artisanal Pinot Noir specialists. Their vines are planted to some very special soils indeed, terroir and mesoclime remain king. In producing two Pinot wines, grapes are meticulously hand sorted as they arrive at the winery. About ten months later, a blind tasting, barrel by barrel, decides the first cut. The significant vine age expresses itself in a depth, breadth and complexity of character, articulating the distinctive sense of place, while contributing significantly to the consistency of quality year after year.

A Pinot adherent's paradise, grown to the most splendid winegrowing terroirs in all Martinborough. Only the oldest and most revered parcels are included, the fabled Abel clone, smuggled from Burgundy in the mid 1970s makes up the backbone. Ata Rangi is assiduously crafted to express an intensity of style and purity of varietal charm. Vine age is clearly a factor, it expresses itself as a depth, breadth and complexity of character, while articulating a distinctive sense of place, contributing significantly to the consistency and quality of Ata Rangi year after year.

Positioned at the very southwest tip of New Zealand's north isle, Martinborough is one of the new world's great winegrowing regions, not much is produced here but it is all crazy good. Pinot Noir is the cultivar of choice, small amounts of finely fashioned vintages, conspicuously crafted by a league of artisanal boutique estates and demonically possessed winemakers. Ata Rangi is home to the oldest vines in the region, priceless plantings which are source of the most exquisite Pinot Noir, New Zealand flagships, the Premier Cru of the Pacific.

There's a seam of clay soils which thread their way across the predominantly alluvial gravels of Martinborough Terrace. McCrone is planted to the distinctly cooler climes on this unique vein, stimulating the vines to concentrate flavours and line the lucky grapes with velvety satin tannins. McCrone Pinot Noir is set somewhat apart from the enduring Ata Rangi style, defined by a lively cast of fruit characters and invigorating flow of energy which flows along the length of palate, its elegance and structure make for a mesmerising, engaging wine.

Single site Syrah, picked off a small, single block of the sheltered Kahu Vineyard on the famous gravels of Martinborough Terrace. Fruit is treated to several days of cold soak and three weeks of wild, indigenous yeast ferments, gently hand plunged and filled to a mix of seasoned and new French oak barriques for completion of malolactic and eleven months age. Florals and fine tannins, an exotic mix of blueberry and Turkish delight, gingernut, pink peppercorn, cardamom and clove, densely packed and textural, youthful yet savoury, earthyness to balance the fruit, precision and poise.

Crafted from the pick of Martinborough Pinot Noir, clones 5 and 10/5, Abel and a suite of younger Dijon, all grown to the elite of New Zealand viticulture. Fashioned to regimens which are very old world, with a view to constructing a wine which would be familiar to the Vignerons du Bourgogne. Wild ferments, hand plunges and French oak, achieve a wine of truffled game complexity, graceful tannins and polished, refined sophistication. Proprietor Clive Paton was made Officer of the NZ Order of Merit, for his contribution to conservation and viticulture.

Ata Rangi founder Clive Paton has long been an avid tree planter and has won a number of awards for his significant contribution to the environment. Paton approached the Project Crimson team for advice and support, a charitable conservation trust established for the protection of New Zealand's iconic native red flowering Christmas trees, the pohutukawa, the northern and southern rata. Crimson is sourced primarily from vines between ten and twenty years of age, which yield grapes that express the more aromatic spectrum of Martinborough Terrace.

A half of Merlot, a third of Shiraz, the balance in Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignons and Franc, all picked off a tally of superior blocks on Martinborough Terrace, the later ripening parcels are left hanging on the vine to concentrate flavours and infuse fine tannins. A month of macerations and wild yeast ferments are followed by transfer to a selection of new and seasoned French oak barriques for malolactic and two years maturation. The palate is packed with raspberries, blackberry and plum, a stylish accord of savouryness and seamless complexity.

Stephen George established three hectares of dry grown vines in Piccadilly Valley during the early 1980s, yields from this tiny patch of terroir remain extremely scant. A juggling act of no fewer than fifteen different clones to construct the consumate Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir, from a terroir and mesoclime very similar to Burgundy, a labour of love for one of the industry's most accomplished and venerated identities. Blend No.1 is made from fruit grown to Jim Griggs neighbouring Cemetery Block vineyard.

One of the first established vineyards on Margaret River, the balmy maritime climes at Wilyabrup just the north of the township are a bliss for the realization of Rhône styled Shiraz. Bunches are hand picked over the course of a fortnight as grapes achieve complete ripeness, fruit is gently plunged and treated to the extravagance of two years maturation in French oak barriques. A burst of currants and raspberry, cherries and plum, fine tannins, succulence and tremendous depth of flavour, Ashbrook drinks magnificently on release alongside all good fare.

Predominantly old vines Old Houghton clone Cabernet Sauvignon, hand picked off the original 1976 estate block at Wilyabrup. Bursting with red and black currant notes, vivid dark cherries and plum, leatheryness and violet, its comely perfumes of anise and cigar box precede a flood of fruit on the elegantly spiced oak palate, all supported by silky smooth, fine grained tannins. A wine of amazingly disciplined power and astonishing length, a measure of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc introduces wonderful complexity.

Three quarters Wilyabrup Old Cab and Young Cab clones, transplanted from the original Houghton Source Block in Valley Swan, the balance of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Selectively hand picked at vintage over the course of a month, gently plunged in open fermenters and matured two years in French oak barriques. A fully ripe red berry bouquet, cherry plum fruit leather and hints of cassis saturate the palate, fine grained tannins in support of a succulent, velvety mouthfeel, super premium oak imparts elegance, complexity and fragrant spice.

Established 1982, Scotchmans Hill host a tally of the most superior blocks of vine on the Bellarine. A splendid single vineyard Pinot Noir, only ever made in extremely limited quantities, grapes are all hand picked and painstakingly destemmed into small three tonnes fermenters for several days of cold soak, as the wild indigenous yeasts begin to weave their magic. Batches are hand plunged over the course of a fortnight, followed by a gentle press into a high proportion of new Troncais French oak barriques for sixteen months maturation.

Under & Over is the way forward for Heathcote Shiraz, an impeccably balanced wine of individual character, complexity and charm. Under & Over are made according to a minimalist approach, the focus being on maximum expression of distinctive Heathcote Shiraz fruit character and heightened regionality. The winemaking team at Armchair Critic are well focused on appropriating the most intensely flavoured grapes to construct an excellent interpretation of early drinking Shiraz with outstanding depth of flavour and an impressively ripe, fruit filled finish.

A pure Sangiovese wine from fruit grown to two elite blocks, Argiano's oldest estate vineyard at Montalcino, Vignoni established 1966 and Oliviera planted some years later. Every year during the invaiatura, when grapes get maximum input from the vine, Argiano reduces the yield down to about four or five bunches, achieving massive concentration in the fruit.

Every year during invaiatura, when grapes receive maximum input from the vine, Argiano reduces the yields on their two finest blocks of Sangiovese down to four or five bunches. This increases concentration of the berries and achieves remarkable intensity in the limited release Suolo, one of Tuscany's flagship wines. The palate is long and lasting with hints of balsam, earth and lingering fruit, an impressive capital of tannins and acidity.

Suolo means soil, the rich confluence of Tuscan terroirs which host Argiano's oldest vines. Sangiovese is sourced off two elite vineyard blocks, cropped to a mere four or five bunches per vine, intensifying the flavours in the grapes and achieving extraordinary concentration. Just 3,000 bottles and sixty magnums of Suolo are made annually from the limited yields of these precious sites.

The estate of Argiano is located in the county of Montalcino, a small village which dates back to the middle ages, nestled on top of a hill at 500 meters above sea level. The poet Alfonso Gatto defined Montalcino as a village of confidence and at the same time a window to the apocalypses.

Solengo is an articulation of the unique soils and mesoclimes which nurture Argiano's splendid old vines. Due to a convergence of propitious growing conditions, the noble red grapes of France's Medoc and Cotes du Rhone, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, Merlot and Syrah, can be grown to achieve extraordinary qualities in terms of concentration, ripeness and finesse. Argiano have long since taken their pick of vineyards, appropriating harvests of the finest quality from many of Tuscany's most eminent and ancient winegrowing families.